10 Things I Learned in China (that no one warned me about)

1. First and foremost, the one I’ve been telling anyone who will listen to me ad nauseam: In China, drivers do not yield to pedestrians.

I had an especially difficult time getting used to this, because usually when I want to cross the street, I just walk out and stare down any idiot who’s rude enough to idle toward me in the street while I’m getting my important, entitled, legally protected little self on my merry way.

That didn’t work in China.

Not only to drivers not yield to pedestrians, but they honk at each other. And at pedestrians. And dogs. And maybe mosquitoes. I guess at just about anything. ALWAYS. Honking is not reserved for road rage, or being cut off by a bad driver, or for when you see your friends on the side of the road and want to get their attention. Honking in China is like … something drivers apparently have to do to remind themselves that they’re in a car. They honk ALL THE TIME. Many times for what seems like no reason at all.

It was so weird.

2. Spitting everywhere is the most normal thing ever

Wait, what? You think it’s gross to spend 20 noisy seconds summing up every molecule of phlegm nestled in your respiratory tract and then shooting it onto the sidewalk for everyone to dodge as they walk through the city is weird? Then you should probably just avoid China at all costs.

But seriously.

I understand the notion of cultural differences. I know that in Europe “everyone” thinks Americans are crazy rambunctious and way too loud, etc. I know that in America “everyone” thinks Asian people are bad drivers (see #1 … awkward?). I know that in Africa — wait, actually I don’t know much about Africa at all, except that I want to go there really bad.

Anyhow: people spit on the street in China. People spit on the sidewalk in China. People spit on floor in the hallways of the school where you’re rehearsing operas in China. People spit out of moving cabs in China. They spit everywhere. It’s just … a thing you do. And don’t worry about being discreet. Hoch that up and just get it out of your throat!

Shudder.

You know where else people spit in China? 35,000 feet up in the air, they disregard all notions of personal space, lean really close to you in an already cramped flight, and spit into their air sickness bag. Next to you. In close quarters. Next to you. Basically on you. When all you want is to be not there.

Or so I hear. From my own memory. Oh God.

3. Smoke freely and often.

Haha

I do not think that anyone should be made to feel that smoking cigarettes or cigars is anything other than something they are free to do, be it here in America or anywhere abroad. Some of the people I love most on this earth are smokers. I’m not. They’re conscious of that. Illinois happens to be conscious of things like air quality, and asks that smoking be done a certain distance from doors, not inside, etc.

China doesn’t roll like that. Which is fine. I just wasn’t prepared. Also, the cigarettes there don’t smell like the ones here (which, in all honesty, I don’t mind at all).

4. Dogs aren’t neutered in China.

Surprise!

5. You aren’t azn? You’re a spectacle.

Had to flash an azn peace sign

Actually, I think people did warn me about this, but there was just no way to really anticipate how it would feel. I cannot tell you the number of times a candid photo of me was taken. You know why I can’t tell you that? Because I’m almost positive that I only “caught” about 60% of them. And those are just the candid shots.

There were also drive-bys: if a group of any of us non-azns were taking a picture (here “group” means … “more than 1″), 2 or 3 people walking by would inevitably whip out their cell phones and take a picture of us, too.

5.5 You’re black? ZOMG LET’S TAKE A PIC TOGETHER

Freal. The first time I left our first hotel to go to breakfast/lunch/dinner/I don’t know what meal it was in my life (jet lag is REAL, y’all) but time-wise it was lunch, a man on the street was so taken with my non-azn-ness that he tried to touch my face.

Just … touch it. Like, to see if it was real. Or makeup. Or … I don’t even know what.

Also there were many “stealth” pictures taken of me. It’s in quotes because I obviously saw their stealth asses taking those pictures. But I usually thought it was funny, so we’re all good.

6. Chinese food is different in China

Again, I think I was warned about this but had to arrive for it to sink in. The food was freaking delicious, but there was no moo goo gai pan. No fried rice.

NO EGG ROLLS.

I just realized that one. Wow.

7. Adults will make their children speak English at you

Not really to you. Just kind of in your general direction.

And usually those children are shy. To be fair, I get that. I’d be the same way if a loud black man 3 times my size was smiling down at me from behind his wayfarers and yelling some broken version of “HELLO!!!!” in Mandarin toward the top of my head.

7.5 Someone told the entire population of Kunming that “Nice to meet you!” is a substitute for “Hello!”

I don’t dare to hazard a guess at how many times someone zooming by my nervous pedestrian ass on a moped at rush hour (any time between 8AM and 9PM) yelled “NICE TO MEET YOU” and then burst out laughing with his or her cohort on the moped because it happened so many times.

But again, to be fair, whenever I hear people speaking in a foreign language, I’m quick to whip out whatever basic sentences I can throw together in my head and try them out on these native speakers, so … I can relate to this humorous impulse. I would just really like to know who thought that “Nice to meet you!” would be the one phrase to teach everyone, and why it was important to tell these saps that it was a good replacement for “Hey” or “What’s up?”

8. The milk is not skim

In fact, I’m pretty sure it’s yogurt.

Really, though. It was so lumpy. And so warm. And so probably not pasteurized. And so something I only took one scary sip of.

9. What is Google?

Yes, I technically knew about this one in advance, too. But that doesn’t mean it wasn’t hard to deal with the few times I had internet access! Have fun using Bing to decide. Not.

10. Flowers are delicious

A flower cookie from the bakery

I don’t really know what kind of flower petals were baked into all of the delightful things I bought at the Jiahua Bakery, but they were amazing. I think they may have been rose petals? But really, I could care less. They were in cookies, in pastries, in … so many amazing delicacies. And I want more of them. Yum.

More China themed blog entries to come!

I Didn’t Die in China

 

Our hotel in Kunming

…But I’ve been struggling to find something to write here about my experience. That’s not for a lack of material to work with, it’s simply that I don’t know how to organize my thoughts on the events that happened! I had an incredible experience with new friends making music in a community where Western opera isn’t well known, and we’re all better for it, I can tell you that much.

I learned an incredible amount about myself, about making music, and about how I fit into the world while I was gone. I also learned that in China, drivers DO NOT yield to pedestrians, so your life is in your own hands the moment you have to cross a street. I also learned that one really doesn’t want to ingest the water, because it will make him or her sick (as it did to many of us after we had an unfortunate encounter with a DELICIOUS salad that was apparently washed in tap water).

My best idea is to write about the things I did in the best ways I can think to group them: my trips to the Buddhist temple (which was by far my favorite place in terms of what I visited while in China), the Stone Forest (a tourist attraction akin to visiting … the Grand Canyon?), the vocal experience I had … the feeling of being on parade any time I left the hotel … et cetera! Hopefully you’ll get some stories you enjoy.

The Final Days! My Appeal to You

I depart for Kunming with Karen on Wednesday morning from O’Hare at 7:30AM. We’ll fly to San Francisco, then Beijing, and then Kunming, and be gone until August 16. No matter how much I’ve planned, practiced, agonized, prepared, packed, researched, and anticipated, I still can’t believe we leave so soon. And, in doing all of that planning, practicing, agonizing, preparing, packing, researching, and anticipating, I’ve forgotten to ask you all something very particular:

What do you want to know about this trip? I’ve got my travel diary all ready to go, some extra pens, and my camera and both of its batteries are packed. But what do you want in the form of pictures? Or in stories? Anything and everything? Only the things that seem big? For instance, I already have some plans:

• For Andrei, pictures of my stuffed moose at landmarks around the city and in each airport we visit. Probably in the cabs, too.
• For Jose and David, pictures of all the food I eat in the order it is consumed.
• For Melinda, a visit to the fake Apple Stores that are apparently rampant in Kunming.
• For Rachel, at least one visit to a KTV to partake in some good old karaoke.
• For Julian, I’ll be seeing what Chinese takeout is like in China (I don’t care if that was a joke, I’m going to find out now either way!)
• For Chris, a never-ending search for a teensy tiny gong

But what can I do for you? Please, let me know! I’ll try to get some light video and photos from the rehearsal period, and from master classes, and perhaps even of a performance (question mark). Of course there will be pictures of all the touristy things I can find, and inevitable stories of me being a giant, but is there anything I’m missing? Or, conversely, am I putting too much thought into this?Let me know what you want to hear about my trip!

Countdown to China

So I leave for China in 16 days.

I’m nervous! In a good way, yes, but still nervous. Without my computer (which crashed in May, and will be fixed upon my return to the States in August), it’s been difficult to find and listen to a recording of the music to know how fast things that aren’t marked should be sung, etc, but I’m getting there. I think.

This is a rather unique opportunity that I managed to jump on and that will provide me with many, many memories for the rest of my life. My digital camera and its batteries are packed, but I still need to buy power adapters so I can take pictures to share when I’m back!

Kunming at night

All of that being said, here’s what I’m actually doing: I’ll leave Chicago on July 27 and arrive in Kunming, China, on July 29 to spend 2 weeks there learning and eventually performing the title role in Puccini’s Gianni Schicchi, and a supporting role in Mozart’s Die Zauberflote. We [the students] will have yoga and Tai Chi classes in the mornings, voice lessons, diction classes in French, Italian, German and English, and lots of rehearsal time. Additionally we’ll sing in master classes and apparently attend some local performances.

We’ll have a little time to explore the city (and perhaps some touristy something or other), but most of our time is apparently budgeted out for us. However, I fully plan on at least one session in a KTV (karaoke bar), and taking pictures in at least one cab. Any more ideas? We’ll see what I can fit in … and I think I have a pretty swell layover in Beijing, in addition to a 6-hour layover in San Francisco. Get excited!

WQXR Podcast: Music Belongs to Everyone

Fascinating and a little sad, that is … But the interviewees have wonderful attitudes and stories to share that are both interesting and emotionally stirring.

http://www.wqxr.org/articles/wqxr-features/2011/feb/17/black-classical-musicians-rewriting-odds/

“If you see someone who looks like you doing something, then you’ll do it. These kids don’t think this music belongs to them. Music belongs to everyone.”

vs.

“This was my music the first time I heard it.”

Performance Alert!

Hey, if you’re in the Champaign-Urbana area or you feel like driving here (or flying?) on St. Patrick’s Day this week (Thursday), I’ll be singing on Stage 5 at Krannert Center for the Performing Arts with soprano Karen Loda and pianist Andrei Strizek, at a FREE WINE TASTING!
That’s right! We’re singing at Krannert Uncorked THIS THURSDAY, March 17, from 5-7PM in the lobby! Fancy! Classy! Free wine! Here’s the official event information (click to make the picture bigger):

See you there!

How Do You Work Your Memory?

I haven’t written anything here in quite a while, but I’m in a bit of a bind and I’m appealing to you, dear Internet, for help.

I’m doing a lot of singing this semester, but that’s not really what this entry is about. I can complain to real people who might judge me less about how much work I do or don’t have to do, and how I’m avoiding it by complaining. I’m here to ask you a question about how to do it all:

How do you memorize things?

In my time singing as a student, I’ve never really had memorization deadlines held over my head. I’ve learned my music in a timely manner and been confident in it by the time there was an audience in front of me (which, really, is what it’s all about………right?). Now, though, I have a few sizable chunks of music to memorize in a rather short amount of time. Recently with larger, single roles, I’ve taken to learning the music backwards, so that I’m always working toward music I know. I picked that idea up from a friend a few years ago and it’s been working pretty well in the meantime.

That all said, do you have any suggestions? The most obvious, I think, will be repetition, but I’m wondering if there’s something I can do to supplement that. Any ideas will be gladly welcome!