10 Things I Learned in China (that no one warned me about)

1. First and foremost, the one I’ve been telling anyone who will listen to me ad nauseam: In China, drivers do not yield to pedestrians.

I had an especially difficult time getting used to this, because usually when I want to cross the street, I just walk out and stare down any idiot who’s rude enough to idle toward me in the street while I’m getting my important, entitled, legally protected little self on my merry way.

That didn’t work in China.

Not only to drivers not yield to pedestrians, but they honk at each other. And at pedestrians. And dogs. And maybe mosquitoes. I guess at just about anything. ALWAYS. Honking is not reserved for road rage, or being cut off by a bad driver, or for when you see your friends on the side of the road and want to get their attention. Honking in China is like … something drivers apparently have to do to remind themselves that they’re in a car. They honk ALL THE TIME. Many times for what seems like no reason at all.

It was so weird.

2. Spitting everywhere is the most normal thing ever

Wait, what? You think it’s gross to spend 20 noisy seconds summing up every molecule of phlegm nestled in your respiratory tract and then shooting it onto the sidewalk for everyone to dodge as they walk through the city is weird? Then you should probably just avoid China at all costs.

But seriously.

I understand the notion of cultural differences. I know that in Europe “everyone” thinks Americans are crazy rambunctious and way too loud, etc. I know that in America “everyone” thinks Asian people are bad drivers (see #1 … awkward?). I know that in Africa — wait, actually I don’t know much about Africa at all, except that I want to go there really bad.

Anyhow: people spit on the street in China. People spit on the sidewalk in China. People spit on floor in the hallways of the school where you’re rehearsing operas in China. People spit out of moving cabs in China. They spit everywhere. It’s just … a thing you do. And don’t worry about being discreet. Hoch that up and just get it out of your throat!

Shudder.

You know where else people spit in China? 35,000 feet up in the air, they disregard all notions of personal space, lean really close to you in an already cramped flight, and spit into their air sickness bag. Next to you. In close quarters. Next to you. Basically on you. When all you want is to be not there.

Or so I hear. From my own memory. Oh God.

3. Smoke freely and often.

Haha

I do not think that anyone should be made to feel that smoking cigarettes or cigars is anything other than something they are free to do, be it here in America or anywhere abroad. Some of the people I love most on this earth are smokers. I’m not. They’re conscious of that. Illinois happens to be conscious of things like air quality, and asks that smoking be done a certain distance from doors, not inside, etc.

China doesn’t roll like that. Which is fine. I just wasn’t prepared. Also, the cigarettes there don’t smell like the ones here (which, in all honesty, I don’t mind at all).

4. Dogs aren’t neutered in China.

Surprise!

5. You aren’t azn? You’re a spectacle.

Had to flash an azn peace sign

Actually, I think people did warn me about this, but there was just no way to really anticipate how it would feel. I cannot tell you the number of times a candid photo of me was taken. You know why I can’t tell you that? Because I’m almost positive that I only “caught” about 60% of them. And those are just the candid shots.

There were also drive-bys: if a group of any of us non-azns were taking a picture (here “group” means … “more than 1″), 2 or 3 people walking by would inevitably whip out their cell phones and take a picture of us, too.

5.5 You’re black? ZOMG LET’S TAKE A PIC TOGETHER

Freal. The first time I left our first hotel to go to breakfast/lunch/dinner/I don’t know what meal it was in my life (jet lag is REAL, y’all) but time-wise it was lunch, a man on the street was so taken with my non-azn-ness that he tried to touch my face.

Just … touch it. Like, to see if it was real. Or makeup. Or … I don’t even know what.

Also there were many “stealth” pictures taken of me. It’s in quotes because I obviously saw their stealth asses taking those pictures. But I usually thought it was funny, so we’re all good.

6. Chinese food is different in China

Again, I think I was warned about this but had to arrive for it to sink in. The food was freaking delicious, but there was no moo goo gai pan. No fried rice.

NO EGG ROLLS.

I just realized that one. Wow.

7. Adults will make their children speak English at you

Not really to you. Just kind of in your general direction.

And usually those children are shy. To be fair, I get that. I’d be the same way if a loud black man 3 times my size was smiling down at me from behind his wayfarers and yelling some broken version of “HELLO!!!!” in Mandarin toward the top of my head.

7.5 Someone told the entire population of Kunming that “Nice to meet you!” is a substitute for “Hello!”

I don’t dare to hazard a guess at how many times someone zooming by my nervous pedestrian ass on a moped at rush hour (any time between 8AM and 9PM) yelled “NICE TO MEET YOU” and then burst out laughing with his or her cohort on the moped because it happened so many times.

But again, to be fair, whenever I hear people speaking in a foreign language, I’m quick to whip out whatever basic sentences I can throw together in my head and try them out on these native speakers, so … I can relate to this humorous impulse. I would just really like to know who thought that “Nice to meet you!” would be the one phrase to teach everyone, and why it was important to tell these saps that it was a good replacement for “Hey” or “What’s up?”

8. The milk is not skim

In fact, I’m pretty sure it’s yogurt.

Really, though. It was so lumpy. And so warm. And so probably not pasteurized. And so something I only took one scary sip of.

9. What is Google?

Yes, I technically knew about this one in advance, too. But that doesn’t mean it wasn’t hard to deal with the few times I had internet access! Have fun using Bing to decide. Not.

10. Flowers are delicious

A flower cookie from the bakery

I don’t really know what kind of flower petals were baked into all of the delightful things I bought at the Jiahua Bakery, but they were amazing. I think they may have been rose petals? But really, I could care less. They were in cookies, in pastries, in … so many amazing delicacies. And I want more of them. Yum.

More China themed blog entries to come!

I Didn’t Die in China

 

Our hotel in Kunming

…But I’ve been struggling to find something to write here about my experience. That’s not for a lack of material to work with, it’s simply that I don’t know how to organize my thoughts on the events that happened! I had an incredible experience with new friends making music in a community where Western opera isn’t well known, and we’re all better for it, I can tell you that much.

I learned an incredible amount about myself, about making music, and about how I fit into the world while I was gone. I also learned that in China, drivers DO NOT yield to pedestrians, so your life is in your own hands the moment you have to cross a street. I also learned that one really doesn’t want to ingest the water, because it will make him or her sick (as it did to many of us after we had an unfortunate encounter with a DELICIOUS salad that was apparently washed in tap water).

My best idea is to write about the things I did in the best ways I can think to group them: my trips to the Buddhist temple (which was by far my favorite place in terms of what I visited while in China), the Stone Forest (a tourist attraction akin to visiting … the Grand Canyon?), the vocal experience I had … the feeling of being on parade any time I left the hotel … et cetera! Hopefully you’ll get some stories you enjoy.

The Final Days! My Appeal to You

I depart for Kunming with Karen on Wednesday morning from O’Hare at 7:30AM. We’ll fly to San Francisco, then Beijing, and then Kunming, and be gone until August 16. No matter how much I’ve planned, practiced, agonized, prepared, packed, researched, and anticipated, I still can’t believe we leave so soon. And, in doing all of that planning, practicing, agonizing, preparing, packing, researching, and anticipating, I’ve forgotten to ask you all something very particular:

What do you want to know about this trip? I’ve got my travel diary all ready to go, some extra pens, and my camera and both of its batteries are packed. But what do you want in the form of pictures? Or in stories? Anything and everything? Only the things that seem big? For instance, I already have some plans:

• For Andrei, pictures of my stuffed moose at landmarks around the city and in each airport we visit. Probably in the cabs, too.
• For Jose and David, pictures of all the food I eat in the order it is consumed.
• For Melinda, a visit to the fake Apple Stores that are apparently rampant in Kunming.
• For Rachel, at least one visit to a KTV to partake in some good old karaoke.
• For Julian, I’ll be seeing what Chinese takeout is like in China (I don’t care if that was a joke, I’m going to find out now either way!)
• For Chris, a never-ending search for a teensy tiny gong

But what can I do for you? Please, let me know! I’ll try to get some light video and photos from the rehearsal period, and from master classes, and perhaps even of a performance (question mark). Of course there will be pictures of all the touristy things I can find, and inevitable stories of me being a giant, but is there anything I’m missing? Or, conversely, am I putting too much thought into this?Let me know what you want to hear about my trip!

Countdown to China

So I leave for China in 16 days.

I’m nervous! In a good way, yes, but still nervous. Without my computer (which crashed in May, and will be fixed upon my return to the States in August), it’s been difficult to find and listen to a recording of the music to know how fast things that aren’t marked should be sung, etc, but I’m getting there. I think.

This is a rather unique opportunity that I managed to jump on and that will provide me with many, many memories for the rest of my life. My digital camera and its batteries are packed, but I still need to buy power adapters so I can take pictures to share when I’m back!

Kunming at night

All of that being said, here’s what I’m actually doing: I’ll leave Chicago on July 27 and arrive in Kunming, China, on July 29 to spend 2 weeks there learning and eventually performing the title role in Puccini’s Gianni Schicchi, and a supporting role in Mozart’s Die Zauberflote. We [the students] will have yoga and Tai Chi classes in the mornings, voice lessons, diction classes in French, Italian, German and English, and lots of rehearsal time. Additionally we’ll sing in master classes and apparently attend some local performances.

We’ll have a little time to explore the city (and perhaps some touristy something or other), but most of our time is apparently budgeted out for us. However, I fully plan on at least one session in a KTV (karaoke bar), and taking pictures in at least one cab. Any more ideas? We’ll see what I can fit in … and I think I have a pretty swell layover in Beijing, in addition to a 6-hour layover in San Francisco. Get excited!

WQXR Podcast: Music Belongs to Everyone

Fascinating and a little sad, that is … But the interviewees have wonderful attitudes and stories to share that are both interesting and emotionally stirring.

http://www.wqxr.org/articles/wqxr-features/2011/feb/17/black-classical-musicians-rewriting-odds/

“If you see someone who looks like you doing something, then you’ll do it. These kids don’t think this music belongs to them. Music belongs to everyone.”

vs.

“This was my music the first time I heard it.”

Performance Alert!

Hey, if you’re in the Champaign-Urbana area or you feel like driving here (or flying?) on St. Patrick’s Day this week (Thursday), I’ll be singing on Stage 5 at Krannert Center for the Performing Arts with soprano Karen Loda and pianist Andrei Strizek, at a FREE WINE TASTING!
That’s right! We’re singing at Krannert Uncorked THIS THURSDAY, March 17, from 5-7PM in the lobby! Fancy! Classy! Free wine! Here’s the official event information (click to make the picture bigger):

See you there!

How Do You Work Your Memory?

I haven’t written anything here in quite a while, but I’m in a bit of a bind and I’m appealing to you, dear Internet, for help.

I’m doing a lot of singing this semester, but that’s not really what this entry is about. I can complain to real people who might judge me less about how much work I do or don’t have to do, and how I’m avoiding it by complaining. I’m here to ask you a question about how to do it all:

How do you memorize things?

In my time singing as a student, I’ve never really had memorization deadlines held over my head. I’ve learned my music in a timely manner and been confident in it by the time there was an audience in front of me (which, really, is what it’s all about………right?). Now, though, I have a few sizable chunks of music to memorize in a rather short amount of time. Recently with larger, single roles, I’ve taken to learning the music backwards, so that I’m always working toward music I know. I picked that idea up from a friend a few years ago and it’s been working pretty well in the meantime.

That all said, do you have any suggestions? The most obvious, I think, will be repetition, but I’m wondering if there’s something I can do to supplement that. Any ideas will be gladly welcome!

Joyce DiDonato in Recital — Be Still My Heart!

Joyce DiDonato as Rosina in the Lyric Opera of Chicago production of Il Barbiere di Siviglia

My favorite singer, beyond a shadow of a doubt, is the phenomenally talented  mezzo-soprano Joyce DiDonato. I cannot say enough about her voice. Her singing is technically superior, emotionally charged, and so overwhelmingly powerful that listening to her CDs on the street I can’t help but smile. She is, in my opinion, the best singer performing today, and will be the best living singer until she dies (or until her clone begins singing). I can’t get over her. She is just … her singing is what I want my singing to be. I don’t think I can say more than that without repeating myself. She’s amazing.

That said, I found out about two months ago that she’ll be making her Chicago recital debut as a part of the University of Chicago Presents program in Hyde Park on February 18, 2011. The recital will feature all sorts of music that suits DiDonato’s voice as though it were written just for her: Rossini, Leoncavallo, Chiara, Haydn, and more.

(AS IF you needed another reason to love her, the woman sings like this FROM A WHEELCHAIR!)

The venue is a lovely recital hall on the campus of the University of Chicago in Hyde Park, and the audience is sure to be treated to an amazing night of  singing that fiercely outstrips everything else happening in the city that evening. The recital is even (thoughtfully) scheduled on an evening when the Lyric Opera presents a 2:00PM matinée, allowing for maximum exposure.

Long and short, I’m devastated that this recital occurs only one week before the second opera of the Illinois Opera Theatre season opens here in Urbana, and I will thus be in rehearsal from 3PM-10PM that afternoon/evening.

PLEASE, if you are in Chicago or the suburbs, or will be on the evening of February 18, 2011, or have the ability to find yourself there that night, GO TO THIS RECITAL. There is no way you will regret it. And, if you’re lucky enough to be a student, flash your ID to get access to world-class, Gramophone artist-of-the-year, Grammy-nominated singing for only FIVE DOLLARS.

Joyce DiDonato singing at Baden Baden

You will never find a better deal in your life. And I will be eternally jealous of you. And you know what? I bet you can meet her. I think I just had a heart palpatation THINKING about meeting this woman. This has reached the point where I need to stop writing about it and just listen to the rest of the CD I have playing as I write this (hers, naturally Colbran, The Muse [2010]).

BUT. This makes me even more excited for that glorious day when I finally have the privilege of listening to this woman coloratura her way through an evening live.

Pertinent info:

Joyce DiDonato in recital
University of Chicago Presents
February 18, 2011
7:30 PM
$35/$5 students

PS Follow Joyce on Twitter (twitter.com/joycedidonato) and check out her YouTube channel (http://www.youtube.com/user/TheYankeediva). And, of course, her actual website (www.joycedidonato.com). One of the most accessible artists around! Brava once more!

Musical Epiphany

When you have watched someone grow and seen them progress through life in tandem with you, seeing them succeed affects you in ways you would never have known possible had they not happened in your heart and soul.

A few weeks ago I watched and listened to a singer I’ve grown with in the past 3 years sing in a way I’ve never seen her sing before. She opened up and her immense talent swelled to its full potential 10 feet in front of me. Sound filled the space we were in, vibrating the furniture and the house itself, truly making my chest move, resonating deep within me. What happened is so difficult to describe that I think it’s only worth trying to do so, in order to give you an idea of how I felt.

After a few suggestions from our teacher, something clicked and this voice opened up and out. It became instantly round, and even from top to bottom. The most ostensibly difficult passages were executed with what can only be described (from an audience standpoint) as astounding ease. Breath support wasn’t an issue. Intonation was perfect. The singing became technically flawless.

Through that flawlessness, the emotions the singer was experiencing were palpable. I felt the joy of discovery, the ease of overcoming musical obstacles, the pride that comes with success, and the intense happiness that is inherent with appeasing oneself. Each thought that ran through her mind came out in her singing. Note after note, phrase after phrase, all of Caro nome took shape in the crook of the piano facing the water on Lake Shore Drive.

Suddenly I understood why the words were chosen as they were, why someone would bother to write music like this at all, and why it’s still being performed more than 100 years after an idea was born and pen was set to paper. Love of music lived in me anew, like the love Gilda expresses in her song about the happiness of a name.

I was and am energized once more to sing, because I remember the excitement that greeted me when I realized that I could dedicate my life to performing in the first place. Learning is fun, performing is wonderful, but discovering something again for the first time is priceless and I wanted to share.

Master Class

Today we had our first studio class of the semester. I’m fairly certain that all 22 of my professor’s students were in attendance for at least a part of the class, and 21 of us sang. It was phenomenal to hear what has happened to the voices of my friends and fellow singers over the course of the summer. I’m thoroughly excited to see and hear what happens for everyone this year!

I really can’t speak highly enough of the amount of incredibly impressive singing that happens in these classes, but even more than that the support of students who have gone through what you are experiencing is so beneficial. Possibly more than that, too (at least for me), is being able to sit as a senior in a room and watch two freshmen perform in their very first studio classes, and be able to see what I was like three years ago.

I remember the panic that coursed through my body each time someone finished their song, terrified that Cynthia would call me forth to sing next. Eventually she did, and I got up to sing “Deh, vieni alla finestra” from Mozart’s Don Giovanni. Halfway through the song I was stopped and told not to sing it again that year. I didn’t understand but I was flattered by the comments I heard from the older students and knew that I would eventually be singing how I wanted. Even then, I knew that one day I’d be happy with what was coming out of my body.

Now to see young nerves at work and hear young voices, alongside older voices, I’m incredibly excited to go into this school year. I’m truly impressed with the caliber of talent with which I am surrounded on a daily basis, and the friendships that have developed with my peers out of our common goal to become better artists. As always, Cynthia started the class with a massively invigorating speech about living to serve the music, and about the humbling experience of performing for others.

I can’t wait to keep that going for myself this year.